Fear, aggression or frustration?
Even if a dog is barking madly and lunging towards another dog, it could be the result of frustration (all they want to do is play, but are being prevented) or a lack of social skills. However, caution is always recommended: they are physically demonstrating the thoughts that are in their head. If they are displaying aggression, then that is the behaviour that will likely be displayed if they got close enough to their trigger. Of course, they might meet a friendly dog, who invites them to play, and all is well…but what if this doesn’t happen? The risks outweigh the benefits of letting your dog get close when they are in the wrong state of mind.
These behaviours can become a habit that is hard to break. If it has been a long-standing problem, they may not be able to play well if let off lead: they simply haven’t had the good experiences to teach them how to interact well.
Dogs often learn to growl/ bark/ lunge because they’re afraid of the situation, and learn that their actions make the dog/ person/ car etc go away. That gives them a sense of relief, after a period of high tension. Some dogs feel they need to protect their owners, and some just want to attack other dogs (perhaps because they have been specifically bred for this). If you are concerned what they will do to another dog/ person/ animal, make sure they’re wearing a muzzle.
Causes
It may have been a scary event that caused this to happen, or just that your dog has begun to feel overwhelmed and is doing the best they can to cope.
It can also be caused, or made worse by, a health problem or dietary intolerance. It’s best to book a veterinary check-up to rule out any physical problems. Dietary intolerances or health issues can increase levels of energy, anxiety, frustration, grumpiness or sensitivity to stress, and no amount of training will offset this.
Managing the situation
The way to deal with your dog is largely the same whether they’re experiencing fear, frustration or anger. You need to work at a distance they they can cope with - this means you might have to be a long way from their trigger at first. Then you can reward them for good behaviour (watching, staying calm, walking away, focusing on you etc); use distraction and redirection (for when you think they need their mind on other things); prevent them from getting it wrong (distance; avoiding certain locations; use a lead plus head halter or harness; have them in a muzzle); and have an 'escape plan' for when things might go wrong eg 'this way' or 'let's go'.
Thresholds
It’s important to notice the moment when your dog starts to react to a dog/ person/ car etc. You will need to learn to recognise the small signs (freezing, staring, hackles raising, quiet whine, muscles twitching, jerky movements etc) that happen before the big ones (barking, growling, snapping and lunging). You need to turn your dog away before they are forced into showing the big signs. This keeps them in a thinking state, rather than simply reacting.
The lower you can keep their stress levels, the more they’ll be able to cope with. The threshold distance is the point at which they cannot cope. If they start barking, move them away from the situation as fast as you can, only stopping when you think they can re-assess the scene calmly. Then turn them back to face the problem, and see if you can get a bit closer.
The threshold distance can be thought of as a ‘bubble’ around your dog. The size of the bubble will depend on previous associations, and how they’re feeling in general, and may vary a lot for each situation you come across. Your emotions will also have a big impact: if you’re worried and on edge, your dog will be more alert for signs of danger.
Rewarding calmness
Although it can feel counterintuitive to reward a dog who is showing signs of aggression, you have to focus on what you are trying to achieve. You want a dog who is calm, and can watch other dogs/ people/ animal/ vehicles without becoming emotional. That means you need to reward the calmness. But your timing needs to be right. Use rewards when they are under threshold, and are able to listen to you. If your dog refuses to eat what’s being offered, it’s probably because they’re too stressed or overwhelmed by the situation. You will need to move to a quieter spot, and work with them there.
Moving away
This is the biggest reward for dogs who are worried about other dogs/ people/ animals etc. The faster the better. Only pause when your dog accepts the new direction, and stops looking back to whatever upset them. Use verbal praise when they’re getting it right (i.e. they’re moving away without resistance). The sense of relief teaches them that moving away (rather than confronting) is the best course of action.
If your dog looks at the trigger, and then at you, that’s great. It means your dog is beginning to look to you for help, rather than trying to sort the situation out themselves. Move them away a short distance, and give them a food reward. You will then need to judge whether to turn back for another go, or keep moving away.
Moving towards
This is the reward for those who are frustrated and want to meet other dogs and people. They should only move forward when they are calm, and not pulling. Stand still (or move away), if they start jumping around or being vocal. However, don't allow them to approach other animals in this state, or to any dogs or people who won’t cope with their high energy.
Distance
The distance you are to your dog’s trigger is really important - you don't want them to start reacting. Stay far enough away that you can keep them calm and do some training. This will prevent them from getting it wrong, and showing behaviours you don’t like. Of course, this won’t always be possible, but try to keep it as your general rule. If you and your dog are getting too close (or the trigger is getting too close), say ‘let’s go!’ and quickly walk away from the problem.
Predictability
Once you get good at anticipating problems, you’ll be able to predict how your dog might respond, and be able to act accordingly. If you begin to notice that smaller spaces make your dog worse, try to avoid walking in places where there are narrow paths and no escape routes. If you realise that your dog can’t cope when they see dogs running around playing with each other, or chasing balls, don’t walk in areas where there are lots of dogs off-lead until you’ve had chance to do more training. The higher the level of predictability, the more in control you will feel. Your dog should sense your confidence, and relax as well.
Calmness
Your dog will be able to cope better with problems if they are generally calm and responsive when out the house. If they pull on the lead, bounce around in excitement, constantly whine, or are not able to stand still when required etc, then this needs to be improved first, before you expect them to be able to cope near other dogs/ people/ animals/ cars etc.
Calmness needs to start from the moment you’ve decided to go on a walk. If you allow excitement, anxiety or agitation to build, you’ll be creating problems before you’ve even made it down the drive. Calmness is as important for you as it is for your dog, because they will be looking to you for guidance. If you feel angry, fearful or stressed, your dog could lose trust in your instructions, and their unwanted behaviours might increase.
Patience
Although it can be very frustrating and embarrassing when your dog ‘acts up’, just take a deep breath, and work out what the best course of action is. Remember that it's a steep learning curve for your dog, and it's going to take a while for training to catch up with 'real-life' situations.
Focus
Your dog needs to be used to responding to their name, 'watch me', 'close', 'come here' and other cues, and to enjoy doing this. If you can't get your dog’s attention when they’re close to you on a lead in a quiet area, don’t expect them to listen to you when they are off lead, or are straining on the lead to get to a trigger. Reward them lots for getting it right. Once it's working, you can begin to use these cues near their triggers.
Collars, harnesses, headcollars and leads
Every dog is slightly different, but when I'm working with a highly reactive dog, I generally prefer a two-point contact. So that might be a double-ended lead attached to a flat collar and a well-fitting headcollar. For those with less reactivity, or who are smaller and lighter, I would just use a fixed harness and short lead (or a double-ended lead if the harness has a front clip as well as a back clip). If your dog has a tendency to back out of collars and harness when they are trying to run away from, or get to, a trigger, you can use a half-check collar. But these must be fitted in such a way that they only tighten up enough to prevent them coming over their head, but not so tight that it causes pain and discomfort to their neck.
Dogs do not like headcollars, so you will need to train your dog to accept wearing one, and to respond to the pressure cues you give on it (eg to turn away from a trigger). This can all be achieved using rewards.
I do not use slip leads, check chains, dominance collars, constricting harnesses, prong collars or shock/e-collars. They can cause unnecessary levels of discomfort, pain, anxiety and stress, and will mask the emotions and thoughts of a dog. If a dog is saying (through their body language) that they're not coping, then it's up to us to teach them how to cope - not by punishing them for not coping. I know that dogs find headcollars aversive, which is why I'm careful to train them to get used to them, and use a double-ended lead so that the pressure is kept off the nose most of the time. The aim is to get rid of the headcollar once they are coping around their triggers.
Muzzles
These are often seen as negative, but they can be a useful piece of equipment for dogs who show aggressive behaviour, and it's a clear signal to others to keep their distance. It means your dog cannot physically injure another dog (limiting distress or damage to dogs or people; avoiding vet bills and lawsuits; and the police are less likely to get involved if you’ve proved you are taking responsibility). However, it won’t stop them intimidating another dog, or attempting to bite, or creating a very stressful situation (for all concerned). So, it’s important they are not let off-lead during the training process: you need to stay in control of their behaviour, and you can’t do this if they’re several meters away from you.
Dogs don’t like muzzles of course - so use lots of treats in the early training. Get your dog used to the muzzle going on, and being taken off, without resisting this happening. Then reward them when they’re out on a walk and wearing it, without trying to rub it on you, the floor, or anything they can make contact with. Basket muzzles are best, as dogs can pant, drink and take treats.
Approach and retreat
Because you need to aim to keep your dog under threshold, and therefore in a learning state of mind, you need to learn when to approach a trigger, and when to retreat. You will need to pay close attention to your dog’s body language, as well as what’s happening around you. Always be prepared. Always be ready to make a change of direction to help your dog cope. Always plan your escape routes to keep them away from trouble. This shouldn’t make you a bag of nerves when you’re out – the aim is to give you a greater sense of control and predictability.
As your dog approaches the trigger (e.g. another dog), slow them down. Allow them to watch what’s going on for a couple of seconds and then turn them away. You can either say ‘let’s go!’ or ‘this way!’ or ask them if they’re ready to turn away by saying “Done?”. If they turn away willingly, make sure you use lots of verbal praise. If they choose not to turn, try again. If the trigger is approaching, you might have to insist they move, and make a note to call them away quicker next time. When you’re far enough away from the trigger that you can keep them under threshold, you can reward them with a food treat, or allow them to sniff the ground. Then you can face the trigger again, and praise your dog for being able to watch what’s going on without reacting. If that goes well, you can calmly approach, but aim to stop before your dog starts to react (i.e. keep them under threshold). If they want to walk further away, it might be a good idea to do so – they’re telling you that they’re not able to cope with what’s happening. This means you will need to do more training at a greater distance from the trigger. If they start displaying big behaviours (barking, growling, whining, lunging, becoming more active in their movement etc) it means you’re too close. Move away as fast as you can, calm your dog down, and start again.
Working with a trigger
If you’re working with a trainer, or a friend with their dog, or livestock behind a fence etc, you can do a desensitisation setup. The trigger needs to stay relatively still at first, although later on they can move around. This is a training situation, and needs to be highly controlled. This level of predictability is hard to replicate in real-life situations, but you will be able to adapt certain elements of it.
As you repeatedly approach and retreat from the trigger, you will be creating a spiral, gradually moving closer to the problem. It’s vital that you don’t rush this training. Your dog needs to remain calm at all times for this technique to be successful. Have a time limit for each setup (e.g. 15 mins), and then give your dog a break. Note the distance you got to at the end of the session. You may be able to start the next session nearer to this point. Be constantly on the lookout for an increase in stress or arousal, and be ready to move your dog away if they’re about to go over their threshold.
Walking past
If you have no choice to walk past a trigger, keep as much distance as possible, keep your dog on the opposite side of you to the trigger, keep them close, and walk smartly past. Don't stop if there's a reaction, just keep going until it's safe to stop, and then work to calm them down. Things happen, try not to let it negatively affect the rest of your walk.
Following the problem
Either after you have walked past, or just when the opportunity arises, try to teach your dog to follow a trigger and be able to stay slow and calm. They will find this tricky at first, but the aim is that they can smell the dog/ person/ animal and remember staying calm - you want to spark their curiosity.
Walking ahead
Depending on the situation, you might find yourself having to walk ahead of the trigger. Reward your dog for walk forwards with you, without constantly looking behind them, or trying to get back to the trigger. You will need to be far enough ahead that your dog can remain responsive to you.
Walking parallel
When circumstances allow (usually when the distance is right, and perhaps the other dog is calm and on a lead), you can then try walking a parallel path with the trigger. But you will need to increase the distance between them and trigger if they find this hard, and be ready to walk them away if they begin to react. The calmer they are, the closer you can get to the trigger. Stop occasionally and reward your dog if they stay calm. Keep watching their body language: they are likely to respond to any movement from the trigger, and you need to be ready to do something about it.
When things don’t go to plan
Even if you’ve trained your dog to stay calm when their triggers are relatively close, and you’ve worked on keeping their attention most of the time, there will still be scary moments. For example, a loose dog running up to you, or a bike getting a bit too close, or a jogger appearing out a gap in the hedge etc. Your dog will ‘explode’ into defensiveness or exuberance, and will display the worst of their behaviour. You need to act quickly, and stop their behaviour becoming dangerous – either to them (they might get loose and run on to a road), to you (they might pull you over, or bite you as a result of redirected aggression), or to someone else or another animal. Most of the time the best course of action is to 'get outta there' very quickly. This will likely involve pulling your dog away from trouble - aim to stop as soon as you're far enough away, so you can regain their focus and calm them down.
Sometimes an interrupter works - this is a sound that stops a dog for a second or two, just enough time to prevent a fight, and to give the next set of instruction ('come here', 'let's go' etc). The problem is, it takes a lot of skill to get the timing right, and often the best thing you could have done is move away very quickly. Some sounds can have the opposite effect and actually worsen the problem, as it's an added stressor to an already stressful situation. However, a well timed 'Hey!' 'Enough' or 'No' can sometimes be all that's required. If you have to use an interrupter, remember to start praising and rewarding them the moment they respond - and move them away from further trouble!
Never stay cross with your dog, the trigger, yourself or anyone else!
Although you will sometimes have bad experiences, try not to let negative thoughts eat away at you. It won’t do you any favours, and it certainly won’t be helping your dog, who needs to be able to look to you for help and support. Remember that you are a team. If you didn’t control the environment enough, or something unpredictable happened, or you haven’t done enough training, or someone has been rude to you, or another dog was out of control…none of that is your dog’s fault. Forgive them. Remember you are in the process of teaching your dog a better way of behaving, and they (and you) are bound to get it wrong sometimes. And that’s okay – learn from it, and move on.
(c) Sarah Crockford 2024